Sew Together Bag SAL // Week 2: Outer Panel - piecing, applique + quilting

Good morning and hello Week 2 of our Sew Together Bag SAL.  This week is exciting for 2 reasons: we start sewing (!), and I will be doing a givewaway for completed homework! (winner chosen next Monday morning) 

To enter the giveaway all you need to do is post a picture of your completed outer panel on IG, along with the #sewtogetherbagSAL hashtag.  And if you're wondering what the giveaway is, be sure to check IG on Wednesday - where I'll be sharing that info.  

But for today we will be going over Outer Panel - piecing, applique + quilting.  And since we have A LOT to cover,  I'm gonna get right to it.  

PIECING

At this point I think most of you should be fairly self-sufficient in this regard, but if you want help with cutting dimensions, look back at THIS POST for help there!  

The ONE THING I did want to metion is this:  I usually make my Exterior Panel just a bit larger than the pattern calls for, if I'm going to be quilting it.  Sometimes quilting (sewing) through those layers can make it "shrink" just a tad, so I prefer to quilt it first, then trim it to the exact dimensions needed.  

(So for example, when I make my patchwork panel, I don't stress that it'll turn out 10.5" wide x 14.5" long.)

APPLIQUE

At long last, the moment so many of you have been waiting for!   

[Note: I have both a typed tutorial, for those of you who like to read and skim.  And a video tutorial for you, if you learn better by watching!  Scroll down to the end for the video.]

Applique is simply the process of cutting out a shape of fabric and stitching it to the face of another fabric.  

Often people use a zig-zag stitch or a blanket stitch to secure their shape, and I've done both.  These stitches will be more secure for items that might have heavy use (or washed frequently).  

However, for these bags I have been enjoying the look of the free-hand method I learned from the book Sew Illustrated.

HOW TO APPLIQUE SIMPLE SHAPES

Step 1 - Find an image, letter or shape.

- Google it!  Especially works well for applique. (I often use the key words, "___________ sihlouette". ) 

- Save the image to your compter (or screen shot the image).

- Adjust the size by changing the "scale" percentage on your "print screen"

(as a general rule of thumb, for Sew Together Bags I try to have my image about 3.5" tall)

- Make a note on your image what size (percent) you ended up printing it at!  

Step 2 - Trace your shape onto the paper side of some HeatNBond Lite.  

However, remember that your image will be reversed in the end!  So you need to trace it opposite to the desired direction! (Your image will have to flip over when you iron onto your fabric, which reverses it's direction.)

Hannah is always by my side and wanting to help me, if I'm sewing or doing something creative.

- Use a Pencil to trace.  Don't use an erasable pen, such as a Frixion pen.  Your tracing lines will disappear when you iron it! (Ask me how I know!)

- Tape your image behind your HeatNBond Lite, and then to a door or window.  This makes it easier to see your tracing lines.

- Do not cut your shape on the traced lines yet!  Wait till you've ironed it onto your fabric.

Step 3 -  Iron your HeatNBond Lite shape (glue/bumpy side down) onto the WRONG SIDE of your fabric.

Step 4 - Now that your shape is fused to your fabric, use your sharpest pair of scissors (preferably with sharp, pointy tips) cut out your shape (through both the paper and fabric).  

Step 5 - Pell off the paper backing, and place on the RIGHT SIDE of your fabric panel.  Press.

(Note: for Sew Together Bags I line the BOTTOM of my shape about 4" from the TOP of my fabric panel.)

In this video, I also talk through how to iron your shape onto your fabric.

QUILITNG YOUR EXTERIOR PANEL

If I'm in my sewing room, Ellie will be too. 
She volunteered to quilt this panel.

Step 1 - Once your panel is pieced, you will need to baste your interfacing/batting to the back of it, in preparation for quilting.

(My preferred method is to use Pellon SF101 (fusible interfacing) WITH cotton batting, so that's what I will refer to here.)

- iron your SF101 to the back of your panel.  

- spray (or pin) baste a scrap of cotton quilt batting to the wrong side of your panel

Step 2 - If desired, mark your quilting lines using a fabric pen, chalk pencil, or Frixion pen.

Step 3 - Using quilting thread (thicker weight), quilt as desired.  

2 tips for you:

- If you're doing straight line quilting, you will want to increase your stitch length (3-3.5).  It makes your stitching sit "on top" of your fabric a bit more, and gives a more professional, finished look! 

- If you're straight-line quilting AROUND an appliqued shape, I decrease my stitch to .7 (for about 5-7 stitches) right before I get to the shape.  Then I simply clip my threads.  No need for knots!

Step 4 - Trim your Exterior Panel to the specified size on your pattern.

That's it - you're done for this week!

Weekly Homework

- finish your Exterior Panel (piecing through the final trim-to-size)

- post a photo of your completed panel, and include #SewTogetherBagSAL and be sure to tag me @RedRainbootsHandmade... (this will enter you in the giveaway.  Just remember your account needs to be public)

- make sure you've got your zipper foot and zippers ready for next week, cause ready or not, here we come!

Sew Together Bag Sew-Along schedule:

(click on any previous date to be taken to that week's blog post)

July 19 - Intro (part 1): Supplies 

July 26 - Intro (part 2): Ideas for Personalizing Your Outer Panel

Aug 2 - Week 1: Cutting + Interfacing

Aug 9 - Week 2: Outer Panel

Aug 16 - Week 3: Insides (zippers)

Aug 23 - Week 4: Attaching the Sides

Aug 30 - Week 5: Finishing It Up!

Sew Together Bag SAL // Week 1: Cutting + Interfacing

Today is the day!  After 2 weeks of planning and preparing, we are going to dig in and get started on our Sew Together Bags.  

Today's post will cover: 

- cutting out your bag pieces

- an easy way to use and cut up scraps from your scrap bins

- how to apply your interfacing.

Three things before we get started: 

1) Reading the pattern. 

I find the cutting instructions a bit confusing if I don't mark it up and make it easier to read.  So if you're like me, get out a highlighter and a pencil, and make yourself quick notes, so that all it requires is a glance between pattern and cutting table (and not a 3 minute read each time).

2) Printing your pattern.

If you have the PDF pattern, be sure that when you go to print your pattern, your printer doesn't have the setting "scale to fit" checked!!  Because if it is, your side panel template might be the incorrect size. 

3) Outer panel size adjustment

I prefer to make my outer panel a bit larger than the pattern says.  I aim for 14"x10" (or bigger if you're using a thick interfacing/stabilizer). That way if it shrinks a little during the quilting process, you can trim it to the exact size specified when you're done.

That being said, let's get started!

CUTTING

Once you start cutting, the pattern begins to make more sense... but sometimes seeing the pieces all laid out (like the photo below) helps too! 

(Also: remember to make sure your printer printed the correct size for your side panel template, and it didn't have the "shrink to fit" option selected!)

I find the easiest way to cut out the side panels is to cut 4" x WOF strips using my rotary cutter & ruler (of the fabric and interfacing)...

fold the fabric/interfacing in half and line the template on the fold...

and then use the template only to cut the diagonal line.

See... I like to make reminder notes on my pattern pieces!

CUTTING UP SCRAPS

If you're wanting to cut scraps into patchwork pieces for your Exterior Panel,  I thought I'd show you the way I've found quickest to get them cut up into usable pieces. Sometimes when digging through scrap bins, they can seem time-consuming to cut up, since they're all shapes and sizes.  I know there are many ways to tackle cutting up scraps - this is just the way I do it. 

(And please ignore my gray hair that needs re-touching!)

FUSING INTERFACING

I recommend fusing your interfacing to the fabric pieces as soon as everything is cut out.  Then it's all ready to go.

Side Panel piece + interfacing = place wrong sides together.

This video will show you how to iron fusible interfacing... (and how I like to prep my Outside Panel for quilting, but we will cover that more next week.)

Homework for this week...

- cut out ALL of your bag pieces

- iron your interfacing pieces onto your fabric pieces (If you are piecing your Outside Panel and haven't made it yet, skip interfacing that piece till it's done, obviously)

-post a picture of your progress!!  We love cheering you on and being inspired by everyone sewing together.  (Use the hashtag #sewtogetherbagSAL, and tag me too! @RedRainbootsHandmade)

Sew Together Bag Sew-Along schedule:

(click on any previous date to be taken to that week's blog post)

July 19 - Intro (part 1): Supplies 

July 26 - Intro (part 2): Ideas for Personalizing Your Outer Panel

Aug 2 - Week 1: Cutting + Interfacing

Aug 9 - Week 2: Outer Panel

Aug 16 - Week 3: Insides (zippers)

Aug 23 - Week 4: Attaching the Sides

Aug 30 - Week 5: Finishing It Up!

Tiny 2" Patchwork Star Tutorial

These little stars are something I first added to the outer panels on my Sew Together Bags years ago,  and since then I've thrown them into mini quilts and pillow shams, and recently I've been mulling over an idea to incorporate them into tiny Christmas tree ornaments.  They are 2" finished, and just so cute.

Today I thought it would be fun to share with you how I make them.

But one thing before you dive in:  Try to be extra precise with your 1/4" seam - not too big, and not too small.  Because these are so tiny, even the smallest bit either way will affect how they come together.  That being said, let's get started!

CUTTING
(1) white 2 1/4" square
(4) white 1" squares
(1) red 1 1/2" square
(4) red 1 3/8" squares

Step 1 - Draw diagonal lines on the wrong side of the (4) red 1 3/8" squares.

Step 2 - Place (2) of the 1 3/8" red squares on opposite corners of the large white 2 1/4" square, right sides together.

Step 3 - Sew 1/4" on each side of the drawn line, and cut apart on the line.

Step 4 - Press the red triangles open, and place the remaining (2) squares on the other corner, sew on both sides, and cut apart.

Step 5 - Press open and trim off corners.  Aren't those tiny flying geese adorable?

Step 6 - Lay out your star, sew your rows together, and press!

And you have it!  The tiniest, little patchwork star!  I hope you have fun making them.

Scrap Buster Pumpkins Tutorial

If you're looking for a quick, fun, scrappy fall sewing project, these Scrap Buster Pumpkins (#ScrapBusterPumpkins) are the perfect thing for you this season.

I used my pumpkin blocks for a table runner, and 2 hot pads - 

but a throw pillow would be so cute, as well.

One thing to keep in mind as you make these blocks:  The dimensions I'm going to give you are just a jumping off point.  You can make these any size you want!

At first I stuck to an exact 5"x6" orange piece, and simply rotated it sideways to achieve two different pumpkins (a taller/thinner, and a shorter/fatter pumpkin).  But the more I made, the more I switched things up.  I trimmed a little off the side to make a short, squatty pumpkin.  Then I pulled out some long, thin scraps to make a tall, skinny pumpkin.  

For me, this isn't as easy as it is for some of you.  I'm a rule-follower, and I stick to the pattern!  This time I forced myself to just sew pieces together, and in doing so, I experienced the fun of letting go, simply sewing pieces on, and trimming things up at the end.  I highly suggest you try it!

So here's what I used to make my Scrap Buster Pumpkins:

PUMPKINS
5" x 6" (makes 2 different pumpkins, when rotated)
5" x 4.5" (short, squatty pumpkins)
6.5" x 3.75" (tall, skinny pumpkins)

PUMPKIN CORNERS (low-volume)
1.5"-2" squares

STEMS
1-1.5" wide x 2" tall (or whatever height you want)

LEAVES
1.75-2" square (makes 2)

BACKGROUND FABRICS
dig through those scraps!

Step 1 - Leaves.  (Note: I added leaves to most of my blocks, but I left a few without!)

Use (1) 1.75-2" square of green, and (1) same size background square.  Mark a line diagonally from corner to corner, and sew on either side.  Cut apart on marked line and press open. (This yields two.)

Step 2 - Sew your stem piece next to your leaf.  

Now add scraps of low volume pieces on either side, to make it as wide as (or wider than) the body of your pumpkin.
Don't worry about these background pieces being exactly the same height as your leaf or stem.  Just line up the bottom as good as you can, because you will trim the top to match your leaf later on.

Step 3 - to make the pumpkin body, use your small low-volume squares (1.5"-2").  Draw a diagonal line on each, place one in each corner, and sew on the drawn line.  Trim off corners, and press out.

 Step 4 - Sew stem/leaf panel to pumpkin, and then trim (if necessary) to square up your block.

Now for the fun part!  I have a bin full of fabric scrap "strings".  These are scraps that vary in length and width, but each one is a consistent width.  These work fabulously for finishing the blocks.

*Note: to do this part of my blocks, I used a method that Emily (@SimpleGirlSimpleLife) showed us when she made her Wonky Log Cabin Blocks.  I would highly recommend reading her great tutorial.  It's got lots of good details and info for all of us who have a hard time going improv!

Ok here we go! 

You will be sewing a piece of background fabric to the top and the left side of your pumpkins only.

To start, measure your tallest pumpkin.  This will be the height you'll make your smaller blocks.  Mine tall pumpkins ended up being 8.25" tall.

After you measure your tallest pumpkin, find a scrap to sew to the top of a shorter pumpkin.  Use a piece that is a little too big, so you have room to trim it later.  Sew and press.

(In the photo above, you can see that I used a very large scrap for the top of my short pumpkin.  After sewing it on,  I trimmed it to 8.25" tall, and then trimmed the sides even with my pumpkin. (To save time, you can wait to trim the top of your blocks down till the end.)

Now add a scrap to the left side of your pumpkin block (this can be ANY width).  

Sew it on, and trim off any extra length.  

And now you have a pumpkin! Isn't it cute?

I found it easiest to make these in groups of 4.  

Once I had my pumpkins sewn, I laid them out, and chose scraps to sew on the tops.

Then scraps for the the left sides of the pumpkins.  

(I used my scissors to cut super long scraps down to workable lengths.)

Now for trimming and squaring up your blocks.

Line the bare side of the pumpkin (side that does NOT have a background scrap sewn to it) along the left side of your cutting mat.  Trim the RIGHT side square. (This is easy, because the width of your block doesn't matter, remember?)

Then if you haven't already, trim the top of your block to whatever your tallest pumpkin is. 

And this one is done!

To make my table runner, I made 18 pumpkins. (this fit my table well, but you might need less/more).

Lay out your pumpkins.  Once you have the layout you like, you will need to add a side scrap to the pumpkins on the ends that don't have one! 

(See blow photo, with the pumpkin on the left.  It needs a backround strip sewn to its side.)

I also noticed that my right side was a tad bit shorter than my left.  I decided to add a small strip of background fabric to one of the pumpkins, to even this out.

I then sewed my pumpkins together into 2 long rows.  

Using some larger scraps, I cut them down into 2" strips, and pieced them end to end for a middle sashing.  

To attach the sashing, I made sure to start my rows even with each other at one end, but I didn't worry about them ending up exactly the same length, as long as the larger piece was one that ended with a background scrap (so I could trim it even).

In the photo below you can see that my bottom row was a bit longer than the top row.  

After sewing the two rows together, I left them laying right sides together (photo on left), and simply trimmed the larger scrap down even with the row on top. (photo on right)

 I added 2" wide sashing to both outside long edges as well.

I tried to do a wiggly, zig-zag quilting stitch on my Bernina, but it kept skipping stitches when it went to the left.  I tried everything I knew to do: I cleanned it out and oiled it, changed the needle, rethreaded it, and adjusted the tension.  The only thing I didn't have was an actual "quilting" needle on hand (and wasn't about to drive 30 minutes to the store).  

I'm not sure if that would have helped or not.  

However, after the 3rd failed attempt, I changed my plan, switched over to my Juki, and went with simple straight-line stitching.  I marked my lines every 2", and then also quilted in between each of those lines - eyeballing the middle quilting lines. 

You can tell - the quilting lines aren't perfectly straight, but neither are the scrappy pumpkins, so it fits  the look perfectly.

I also made my two extra pumpkin blocks into hotpads, which will be so fun to pull out for my kitchen each fall when we get out our other decorations.  

So there you have it!  

I want to see yours too, so be sure to 

tag me on Instagram @RedRainbootsHandmade, and 

tag your photo with #ScrapBusterPumpkins, so others can see and be inspired as well!

-Julia